Saturday, September 8, 2007

Attacking, Drinking, Biking, Trekking...

I haven't written in a while as we've been keeping busy, and have not had internet access all week. Marc has found a way to access our blog (shh!) so thankfully I'm able to look back to what I last wrote as I honestly can't recall!

Shanghai is an impressive, modern city. We strolled the Bund upon our arrival and were blown away by the incredibly modern buildings (for example, the Pearl Tower) on the opposite side of the river. On our side were 20th century buildings reminiscent of Europe (large clock towers, etc.) The hardest thing to adjust to was the fact that the city is home to approximately 18 million people - over half the population of our entire country. Mind Blowing.

We spent some time in the pedestrian area and at the Yu Yuan Gardens and Bazaar. This area was very cool as well. It felt very old world, with small shops and covered walkways, until you get to the open squares to find Starbucks in all its glory. Marc and I waited in line for 20 minutes to stand sharing some fantastic dumplings. No idea what was in them but with that kind of popularity, they had to be good! Through the windows we watched them being handmade (although the people were working at robotic speed) and then steamed.

We had one of our best dinners of our trip here, somewhere around the 3rd ring road. Marc and I also took a trip to the airport on the Maglev, the train that reaches speeds of 431 km/h!

From Shanghai we boarded another train to Guilin, followed by a bus ride to Yangshuo, a funky, touristy town we really enjoyed. We learned some Kung Fu here, and were to go on a cruise along the Li River however Marc and I missed it as I was unwell. Better by evening though so we all went out for an intense vegetarian dinner and then some bar hopping (cocktails and drinking games). Marc took over the stage in one bar, playing 'Good Riddance' by Green Day while I sang, and Karma Police by Radiohead, attracting a small audience from upstairs. The night ended with some stage dancing at another bar.

The next day we moved on to a small village just outside Yangshuo, and this very chilled wooden guesthouse. Marc learned to cook a complete Chinese meal at a cooking school (can't wait for him to test out his skills upon our return!). We relaxed here, playing some pool, writing in our journals and watching movies. The next morning we went on a five hour bike ride over some rough and muddy terrain to check out the Yangshuo landscape (gorgeous little mountains, famous in China).

Our next stop was in the Longji Rice Terraces. First we returned to Guilin to store our backpacks at the train station. We had to fit two days' worth of stuff into our daypacks. Difficult! We trekked an hour to our first guesthouse, which was basic but very lovely. Our room overlooked the rice terraces. In this area women of the Yao Minority Ethnic Group offer their services to carry your bags for you, and also sell their brightly coloured, knitted handicrafts. They dress traditionally, in fuschia tops and black skirts, and only cut their hair twice in their lives, so it is incredibly long, although twisted up under hats. We rose the next morning and trekked five hours to our next guesthouse. The path rises and falls through the terraces, between 300 m and 1200 m above sea level, and we walk on large rocks that have been placed there over the last 700 years by workers in the area, who use the paths to reach their crops or bring construction materials, etc. carried by horses to and from their homes. Often we had to shift off the path for horses or workers trying to get by us. Last night we slept in another guesthouse in Ping'An, even nicer than the first, also with a gorgeous view of the terraces. We also watched and participated in some traditional entertainment put on by women of the Zhuang Minority Group. I was 'married' to Johnny, one of our fellow travelers, in a traditional wedding ceremony. No worries as it's not legally binding!

It is unbelievable how many people smoke here. As I type I have cigarette smoke streaming in front of the screen. Ugh.

I'm pleased to announce I'm becoming a master of the squat toilet - although we've been lucky to have proper toilets in most places we've stayed. Public toilets are another matter altogether. Testing one's ability to avoid an intake of breath for the longest time possible has become a sport. I'm no Olympian yet.

Off to grab some dinner and snacks for our last overnight train journey in China - this time to Hong Kong. Stay tuned!

- Trish -

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