Words Cannot Describe...

20+ days in India

I have failed in my effort to update our blog on a weekly basis. I have been far too consumed by this country - but am happy to report I have reached a state of acceptance/enjoyment of its many 'charms'. There are certainly some things I would never be able to get accustomed to, such as the lack of garbage collection, mass poverty, streets being used as toilets by all animals - from dogs to humans and almost everything in between, and the men - so many men - sitting roadside, drinking chai or just, sitting. From my perspective, there are many things the governent could do, relatively easily, to get this country moving in a positive direction developmentally, and cleaned up, literally. A quick example: pay a minimum wage to the people on the streets to help clean the garbage. I should think this beats begging on a scale of 'things I'd like to do with my day'. But who am I to judge?

There are also the cultural differences, and those beliefs, rituals and allowances that are guided by religion. I am well aware of looking at India in general through the eyes of a Westerner, but it's rather difficult not to when the potential for progress is so blatant.

We've been to some incredible cities, seen awesome sights, and have met wonderful, smiling people, eager to offer assistance, or simply to welcome us to India. At times I am a bit disheartened at those people who want to shake my hand or simply stand near me. There is an overwhelming sense these individuals feel we are better than they are - we were simply born into more fortunate circumstances. This really hasn't happened often, but it also seems I might be the only person who feels this way, as others, including Marc, haven't had this particular emotional experience. I sometimes find it almost painful to walk or drive down the street. In most cases though, I think the people are just curious. It isn't uncommon for us to be surrounded by a group of locals, from children to grown men, simply watching (usually staring).

What have I done since I last wrote?

The camel trek and night sleeping under the desert sky was fabulous. A few of us discovered the pains of being chafed from the camel - OUCH! My camel, Tota, was led by a young boy, perhaps 10 years of age. I definitely had the most decorated and pampered camel. He wore flowers and a necklace! When we were done riding, my little guy pet his camel and fed him so lovingly. The males of our group raced back the next morning... and guess who won? Marc - My very own camel rider.

We rode a local bus to the next city on our tour, Jodhpur (yes, like the pants), an experience which led us to pay for an upgrade for our next bus trip. The highlights include the following:

• About 45 degrees Celsius on the bus - everyone dripping in sweat (the Westerners, at least). The breeze from the window helped, when we were moving fast enough
  
  
• The bus had about 4x its capacity on board... we had seats, there were people standing & sitting in the aisle, there are 'sleeper' glass-walled cabins above our heads, some w/probably 10 people crammed in, plus, we must have had a full roof, given the number of people that streamed by when the bus unloaded at our final destination.
  
  
• Marc was in an aisle seat. I thought he'd have more leg room. A stinky elderly man in what looked, to Westerners, like a dirty pajama and turban, joined him, on his seat, while another guy sat on his armrest. Sophie, behind us, had a woman literally on her lap at one point, than a man with a glittering toy donkey sharing her seat later in the trip.
  
  
• A fight broke out in the aisle, with plenty of shouting, pushing and punches thrown, moving from the front of the bus to the rear. Out of the way, everyone!
  
  
• In disbelief, Emily, two rows behind us in a window seat, proudly holds up a half-clothed infant child, handed to her by its mother for protection during the fight
  
  
• Someone above us was chewing the tobacco sold in little packets everywhere here. Apparently this requires a lot of spitting - and some common sense & consideration. This person lacked the latter two, so multiple times we all ended up with red tobacco juice across our faces, tops and headrests. My window had one lovely view.

Our upgrade was incredible - A/C, super reclining seats - positively luxurious! We haven't upgraded a bus ride since then but haven't suffered nearly as badly as that first trip.

We did get private A/C vehicles once however - and experienced what felt like the scariest roller coaster ride EVER for hours on end! Picture this: Two lane, unlit winding road full of trucks, cars, autorickshaws & motorcycles, none of us in seatbelts, with two of us sitting sideways in the back passing into oncoming traffic who are often forced onto their shoulder to get around us! It was a ride of pure excitement (and terror by some!)

Marc suffered one very ill day at the hands of Indian food. I had a cold for the past few days. Many of us have been sick on this trip - from throat infections to the need to use a bucket and the toilet at the same time...

On to yummier topics: We've eaten at McDonalds - the coolest menu as there is no beef or pork. Chicken Maharaja Mac, anyone?

After a scare, visits to no less than eight ATMs and one call (six tries) to TD bank ("Everything should be fine... But it's not!!"), we can get $ in India. Whew!

Agra: A few days ago we visited the Taj Mahal at sunset. Magnificent. We took far too many pictures... Editing, please!

We are in Varanasi for a few days. This is one of the oldest living cities in the world, and one of the holiest in India. This is where pilgrims come to bathe in the Ganges, which is believed to wash away all sins, but is in fact disgustingly polluted. People also come here to die - as it releases one from the cycle of reincarnation and sends an individual directly to heaven.

Last night we celebrated Sophie's 23rd birthday (one of the girls on our tour, from Nottingham, England) on a rooftop terrace. Our tour leader, Manu, surprised her with a big birthday cake. In India, unlike at home, the cake is presented prior to the meal, but eaten afterwards. At a restaurant in Jaipur, a little girl at the table beside us was celebrating her birthday, and they ate the cake before their meal. The coolest part was when she walked over to our table with a big piece of the yummiest chocolate cake for us to share!! Returning to last night... We sat at a long table facing a grass garden, which we all thought a little strange until Manu explained we would each perform for Sophie. Marc and I decided to do a little Rumba... with no music. Still a success - or so we're told! It was great fun. We stayed up late on the rooftop of our hotel, drinking in celebration... and dousing Sophie in Indian powder paint in multiple colours (she can't get it all off today). At 5 am we went for a boat ride on the Ganges... and six of our group actually jumped in. Dangerous!

Some final thoughts:

Mutton is goat (not sheep).

Chip Flavours:

• Lays Magic Masala (tasty, a bit spicy)
  
• Lays Mint Mischief (not worth trying despite the intrigue)
  
• Lays Spanish Tomato Tango (spicy ketchup flavour)
  
• Lays American Style Cream & Onion (just like home)

Ah, India.

I'll write sooner next time to avoid a five pager!

- Trish